Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these tales and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
